| Feb 20-25, 2007
We stopped in the lovely tourist town of
Wanaka to run errands. Wanaka is situated on Lake Wanaka with a
great grassy waterfront (and a nice parking lot). After running
our errands, we parked in the lot and had lunch. Part of the
entertainment was watching all the young backpackers sunning on the
grass "beach". We continued on to a couple of Central Otego Valley
wineries where we spent some time chatting with the winemakers about
winemaking and the region. One of them gave us some tips on areas
to camp. We continued down the road and found a beautiful camping
spot on the bank of a glacial-fed river, the Kawarau River. But
unfortunately the wind came up and starting blowing ground schist
(really powdery sand) all over the place. It was unfortunate, but
we needed to move. We continued along the river until we found a
place to camp in a deep canyon with the "Roaring Meg
Rapid".
We had a change of plans from driving along the
Shotover River thru Skippers Canyon as information we received indicated
that the road is only
barely wide enough for one jeep at a time with deep drop offs. So
when we got to Queenstown we made a quick stop at an internet cafe and
then decided to avoid the town as it is extremely touristy. From
one of the owners of a winery we visited yesterday, we were told that
the drive to Glenorchy and up to the end of the forest road was not to
be missed. One thing that NZ has is a very good information
network. Between the I-Sites and the DOC Information Offices we
can find out just about anything on the areas that we go through.
The drive along the lake from Queenstown is fantastic. Snow capped
mountains in the background with the glacial blue color of the water in
front.

When we stopped for lunch, we found an area on the beach to
do a little "4 wheeling".
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In Glenorchy, the DOC people told us that
the road up the Dart River is in good condition and that we only have to
watch out for the many fords along the way. So we headed on up and
found the "fords" to be laughable. Most of the cars on
the road were sedans and several of them stopped at the water crossings
to take photos of their cars going through them. When we got to
the end of the road, we decided to drive down onto a sand bar in the Dart River
and make camp - just because we could. Although we got attacked by
the
black flies on the sand bar, we did a hike along a trail where
strangely, there were no biting flies. When we returned from our
hike we sat in the security of our camper and watched all the other
people give up on the idea of making camp here (because of the flies) and
flee back
into town. We got a kick out of waving to the jetboat
passengers and seeing them return our waves as one as they sped by.
| Returning the way we came, we went back down
through Queenstown, but we first made a stop for a tea
break on the lake shore. We headed back north out of town a bit
further to
watch the bungee jumpers (jump of 43 meters) off the historic Kawarau Bridge,
a great suspension bridge
built in 1880. Then we visited another winery that uniquely, also
includes a cheesery (yum) with many type of cheese made from sheep's
milk. Then we returned to our southward heading toward Te Anau and Milford Sound,
we will get there tomorrow, rain or shine as it rains through the night. |

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Our guide book says that the Milford area
should be visited regardless of the weather as the more rain that falls
creates more waterfalls to be seen. The rain did however, stop in morning and sun
came out. The road from Te Anau to Milford Sound is
incredible.
| The road has to travel through the Homer Tunnel which is 3.81 meters
(12' 4.5") high, we are 3.6meters (11' 8.5"), but we climbed
onto the roof and removed our vent covers just to be safe.
Remembering that the roof of the tunnel was carved out of rock, we drove
very slowly and soon lost sight of the vehicles in front of us.
Approaching the end of the tunnel, we received a rude surprise as
traffic had already started driving the opposite way (did we forget to
mention that the tunnel is one way controlled with a signal?). We
had to stop in their way and honk our horn to force them to stop and let
us out! |

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Arriving in Milford, we decided not to wait on a boat trip because the weather
was gorgeous and we were able to go out on the last boat of the day.
It was windy but
nice to be out on the sound without the huge tour boats. We saw Dusky
Dolphins and lots of gorgeous scenery with lots and lots of waterfalls,
a fault line and a glacier remnant. We made camp in the parking
lot and, again, watched others deal with the hordes of sand flies from the
security of the Fuso.
In the morning we took a walk along the
bay. There was lots of fog
but also some interesting views of the mountains and the sound through the clouds.

We drove back from Milford with more stops along the way. There
was "The Chasm", where the river drops through a chasm in the
rocks and under a natural rock bridge, Gertrude Valley, just below the
tunnel with gorgeous views and Mirror Lakes which reflect the mountains
on the other side of the valley and water so clear you can see rainbow
trout swimming and skaup (ducks) diving under the water.
We continued south along the shoreline of
Lake Te Anau and then Lake Manapouri before finding an out-of-the-way
site on the Waiau River to set up a quiet camp for the night.
Heading south along the Southern Scenic
Route, we stopped to explore another historic suspension bridge, this
one just outside of Clifden, built in 1899. Coming back to the
shoreline on the south, we were now driving along the Foveaux
Strait. We stopped at a lookout and were surprised to see small
Hector's dolphins surfing the waves along the beach. We stopped
for a lunch of steamed mussels and bread in Riverton, then drove through
Invercargill with its old buildings along its main street, North Road,
on our way to the end of the north/south highway in Bluff.
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Clifdon Suspension Bridge
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View along the Foveaux Strait
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While
not the southernmost point in New Zealand, Bluff is the end or the
beginning of Highway 1, the main north/south route crossing both
islands. In the town center we stopped to look at a Maori Marae
that was different from all others we've seen in that rather than the
usual three ancestor pillars in the front of the building, this one had
three trusses at the entrances with ancestor figurines on them. We made camp at the Green Point Trailhead where we hiked
along the bay to the ship graveyard where we could see parts of about 10
ships that had been run aground to die here. Some of the ships
were built in the 1800's and we could even see the ballast stones
sitting along the ribs of one of the ships at low tide!

Kim & Don at Bluff |

The Bluff Marae |
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